judges. Cuvees presented for Special Club status are tasted first au Vin Clair, or in the tank, while the wine remains still. The tasting must find approval with the judges to continue the challenge. If approved, the wine then spends the remainder of the fermentation and aging process in Club Tresor's distinctive plumped bottle bearing the raised emblem. If, after romancing the bubbles for several years, the judges deem that the wine reflects the true terroir, and

meets expectations of excellence, the announcement is made and the celebration begins. Should the slightest flaw appear, out it goes. That doesn't happen often, but as legend has it, upon one occasion a vigneron was asked to pour out the entire vintage. Delivering this liquid snapshot of an incredibly delicate, centuries-old dance between man and nature, these beautiful champagnes respect the grapes, the process, and the land. The vignerons often

embrace new technologies and renewable resources, while eschewing chemical applications that artificially support their relationship with the vines and with nature. Nowhere in the world are vines so precipitously hung between need and provision. It is that precarious balance, along with deep, chalky soils, woven with sand, marl, loam, and clay, that builds the rich, complex sips owned by artisanal champagnes. Does size matter? Perhaps,